How to calculate the quantity of sand & aggregate in different type of truck, dumper or haiwa

In the following construction video tutorial, you will learn some useful tips to calculate the quantity of sand, aggregate in truck, haiwa etc.

The vehicles come in different sizes and shapes. Given below, the step-by-step procedures to calculate the quantity of materials in these vehicles.

Dumper length L1 = 5.5 m, L2 = 4.5 m

Dumper width = 1.5 m

Dumper height = 1.7 m

Dumper volume = Length x Breadth x Height

Dumper volume = (5.5 + 4.5)/2 x 1.5 x 1.7 = 10/2 x 1.5 x 1.7 = 5 x 1.5 x 1.7 = 12.75 m³

Similarly for dumper with L1 = 6 m, L2 = 5.5 m, width B = 1.7 m and height H = 2 m

Dumper volume = (6 + 5.5)/2 x 1.7 x 2 = 11.5/2 x 1.7 x 2 = 5.75 x 1.7 x 2 = 19.55 m³

How to calculate the cement, sand quantity for plastering

Let us suppose,
Mortar ratio = 1:6 where 1 is cement and 6 part is sand.

Plaster thickness = 12 mm = 0.012 m
Cement density = 1440 kg/m³
1 m3 = 35.3147 ft3
Suggested Plaster Thickness
12 mm for internal walls or brick wall plain surface

15 mm for 4” or 9” brick wall rough surface
20 mm for two plaster layers normally utilized for external walls
Mortar Wet volume = 1 x 1 x 0.012 = 0.012 m³
Mortar Dry volume = 0.012 x 1.30 = 0.0156 m³
Mortar Dry volume (sand + cement) = 30 – 35 % greater than wet volume = wet volume x 1.30
Concrete Dry volume (aggregate + sand + cement) = wet volume x 1.54

As we know that mortar ratio = 1:6, from which 1 + 6 = 7 = sum of ratio
Amount of cement in plaster = 1/7 x 0.0156 x 1440 = 3.21 kg
Also in bags = 3.21/50 = 0.064 bag = approximately 1 bag
Amount of sand in plaster = 6/7 x 0.0156 = 0.0133 m³
Sand quantity in cubic feet = 0.0133 x 35.3147 = 0.47 ft³

TOP 10 SOFTWARE USEFUL FOR CIVIL ENGINEERS

There are many software available which are used in Civil Engineering. Due to the Technological Revolution, the number of software serving Civil Engineering needs are increasing manifold. So, to list out all these software will be an obtuse thing to do. Here is a list of SOFTWARE which are exorbitantly used by many Civil Engineers all around the world. Irrespective of the ranking, these 10 software are very much useful in Construction projects.

Although, there are various sub disciplines like Transportation Engineering, Structural Design, Surveying, Geo-tech Engineering, Environmental Engineering, Construction planning, we have provided a list of comprehensive list software which are used in general. Links to Software of specific sub disciplines are provided at the end of this article.

1) AUTOCAD for Drafting

AUTOCAD is one of the basic software for drafting and documentation of the construction projects which is developed by Autodesk. One can notice this software usage in almost all structural design consultancies and firms especially in India. AUTOCAD 3D version is also available for 3D Modelling.

AUTODESK is leading the innovation of software which are disrupting the way we design and analyse. It is producing numberless software for Architecture, Construction, Engineering, Manufacturing and Design.

CAD design, drafting, modelling, drawing, and engineering software.

Features:

• Work across integrated desktop, cloud, and mobile solutions
• AutoCAD is available in both Windows and Mac OS Platforms.
• Share your work with TrustedDWG™ technology

Quick Tip:

If you are a student you can use AUTOCAD (all versions including latest 2018) for free through Student account. Click the below link to sign up in Autodesk Student community and download free software.

DOWNLOAD AUTOCAD

If you are finding signing up and downloading the free version difficult, here is a video quick video tutorial to download and install AutoCAD for free.

Watch AutoCAD Free Download and Installation tutorial for Students

Click this for more tutorials

2) STAAD PRO for Design and Analysis

When it comes to designing and analysis of a structure, Bentley System’s STAAD PRO is one such software which is opted by many professionals in construction field.

STAAD.Pro is the structural engineering professional’s choice for steel, concrete, timber, aluminum, and cold-formed steel design of virtually any structure including culverts, petrochemical plants, tunnels, bridges, piles, and much more through its flexible modeling environment, advanced features, and fluent data collaboration.

Design Codes

AISC 360-10 Torsion design

Canadian Steel S16-09 design including the current published amendments

Eurocode National Annexes. Additional country options added to steel and concrete designs

New Colombian seismic loading

IS:456 enhanced beam design for column effects.

Post Processing

RAM Connection module. Updated to utilize the current engine otherwise available as a standalone application.

Databases

Brazilian, updated and now including published plate girder sections

Steel joist UPT published by SJI.

Usage and Industry:

• Design and Analysis
• Structural Design Consultancies and firms

DOWNLOAD STAAD PRO

3) PRIMAVERA for Construction Management

Primavera is a construction Planning and Scheduling software. It is opted by almost greater than 70 percent of all Planning and scheduling professionals. MS Office also offering similar software by name MS PROJECT.

Features:

Primavera offers best-in-class solutions focused on the mission critical PPM requirements of key vertical industries including engineering and construction, public sector, aerospace and defense, utilities, oil and gas, manufacturing and high tech, and IT and services.

Primavera PPM products, together with Oracle’s project financials, human resources, supply chain management, product lifecycle management, business intelligence, and infrastructure software are expected to provide the first, comprehensive Enterprise Project Portfolio Management solution. This solution is expected to help companies optimize resources and the supply chain, reduce costs, manage changes, meet delivery dates, and ultimately make better decisions, all by using real-time data.

Usage and Industry:

• Design and Analysis
• Structural Design Consultancies and firms, Project planning and consultants.

DOWNLOAD PRIMAVERA

4) REVIT Structure for Building Information Modelling

Building Information Modelling can be termed as one of the 21st century’s greatest innovation helping big infrastructure projects. BIM (Building Information Modeling) is an intelligent 3D model-based process that gives architecture, engineering, and construction (AEC) professionals the insight and tools to more efficiently plan, design, construct, and manage buildings and infrastructure.

Revit software is specifically built for Building Information Modeling (BIM), empowering design and construction professionals to bring ideas from concept to construction with a coordinated and consistent model-based approach. It includes the functionality of all of the Revit disciplines (architecture, MEP, and structure) in one unified interface.

Parametric modeling

Parametric components are the basis for designing building components in Revit. Express design intent for elementary parts as well as detailed assemblies.

Usage and Industry:

• Design and Analysis
• Structural Design Consultancies and firms, Project planning and consultants.

DOWNLOAD REVIT

5) ETABS for Design and Analysis

ETABS is the ultimate integrated software package for the structural analysis and design of buildings. Incorporating 40 years of continuous research and development, this latest ETABS offers unmatched 3D object based modeling and visualization tools, blazingly fast linear and nonlinear analytical power, sophisticated and comprehensive design capabilities for a wide-range of materials, and insightful graphic displays, reports, and schematic drawings that allow users to quickly and easily decipher and understand analysis and design results.

Usage and Industry:

• Design and Analysis
• Structural Design Consultancies and firms

DOWNLOAD ETABS

SAP 2000

SAP2000 is another software available for design and analysis of structures. It is also used in many structural firms. SAP2000 has a wide selection of templates for quickly starting a new model. SAP2000 includes parametric templates for the following types of structures: Simple Beams, 3D Trusses, 3D Frames, Storage Vessels, Staircases, Dam Structures, and Pipes.

View and manipulate analytical and physical models with great precision. Easily define custom views and developed elevations to view and manipulate complex geometry with ease.

SAP2000 automatically create joints at structural object intersections or internal joints when meshing structural objects. Joint coordinates and information may be displayed on screen in the model window or in tabular format.

Usage and Industry:

• Design and Analysis
• Structural Design Consultancies and firms

DOWNLOAD SAP2000

6) MS EXCEL

Microsoft Excel is a spreadsheet developed by Microsoft. It features calculation, graphing tools, pivot tables, and a macro programming language called Visual Basic for Applications. It has been a very widely applied spreadsheet for these platforms, especially since version 5 in 1993.It is widely used in Civil Engineering for Data collection, Surveys, Analysis and Design.

Usage and Industry:

• Variety of recipients.
• Structural Design Consultancies and firms, Project planning and consultants, geo-tech design, traffic planning and many other industrial uses.

MS Project

MS Project is another software developed by Microsoft for Construction Management and Planning.

DOWNLOAD MS OFFICE

7) MATHCAD for Calculations

Mathcad is greatly useful in mathematical calculations, distributions, flow analysis etc.

Mathcad by PTC®, the product development company, is the industry standard software for engineering calculations. It’s easy-to-use live mathematical notation, powerful capabilities and open architecture allow engineers and organizations to streamline critical design processes.

Mathcad presents calculations, text and images in an understandable format, enabling knowledge capture, reuse and design verification which results in improved product quality with faster time-to-market.

Mathcad lets you solve, analyze, document and share your calculations easily.

Usage and Industry:

• Calculations
• Structural Design Consultancies and firms, Project planning and consultants.

DOWNLOAD MATHCAD

Also MATLAB is a programming language one can excel at for doing calculations.

8) ARCGIS for Surveying

ArcGIS is a software used in Geographical Information System. It is helpful in creating Thematic Maps. ArcGIS for Desktop is the key to realizing the advantage of location awareness. Collect and manage data, create professional maps, perform traditional and advanced spatial analysis, and solve real problems. Make a difference and add tangible value for your organization, your community, and the world.

Usage and Industry:

• Surveying, Transportation, mapping.
• Traffic studies, surveying and Mapping.

DOWNLOAD ARC GIS

9) 3DS Max – Modelling

3DS Max is an animation software which is used to generate visuals. It is modelling and rendering software which is mainly used for interior design and visual graphics. This software is developed by Autodesk.

Autodesk Maya is another alternative for 3DS Max.

DOWNLOAD 3DS MAX

10) MX Road – Road design and Analysis

MX Road is a software developed by Bentley Systems which is used in Road design. MXROAD combines 3D modelling technology with traditional workflows to improve design quality.

These are the points listed on Bentley Site:

• Survey and data acquisition for all field data types
• Dynamic, interactive 3D modeling of roadways and corridors
• Terrain modeling and analysis
• Interactive coordinate geometry
• Profiles and cross sections
• Geometric design
• Regression analysis.

DOWNLOAD MXROAD

VISSIM

For Traffic Planning, PTV Vissim is a great simulation software one can opt for.

PTV Vissim is a software tool which is widely used to analyse the traffic. PTV Vissim is rounded off with comprehensive analysis options, creating a powerful tool for the evaluation and planning of urban and extra-urban transport infrastructure. For example, the simulation software may be used to create detailed computational results or impressive 3D animations for different scenarios. It is the perfect way to present convincing and comprehensible planned infrastructure measures to decision-makers and the public.

RBI ASSISTANT RECRUITMENT NOTIFICATION 2017

One of the most awaited bank recruitment, RBI Assistant Recruitment Notification 2017 is now out. RBI Assistant notification has been released for total 623 vacanciesthis year. You can now check out the important exam dates, eligibility criteria, vacancy details and online application process of RBI Assistant 2017 in this post. The online application for RBI Assistant 2017 has already started. Candidates can also apply online for RBI Assistant postfrom the direct application link provided below!

 

RBI Assistant Official Notification 2017, Download PDF

RBI Assistant Notification 2017, Click here to Apply Online!

RBI Assistant Recruitment 2017: Exam Dates

Here is the list of important dates for the RBI Assistant Recruitment drive 2017:

Sr. No	Events	Important Dates
1	Start of Online Application Process	18/10/2017
2	Date for Online Application Process	10/11/2017
3	Date for Online Payment of Fees	18/10/2017 to 10/11/2017
4	Date of Preliminary exam	27th & 28th November 2017 (Tentative)
5	Date of Mains exam	20th December 2017 (Tentative)

RBI Assistant 2017 Eligibility Criteria

In order to apply online for the RBI Assistant Recruitment process, candidates need to fulfil the eligibility criteria at 2 levels. The below-mentioned eligibility criteria should be fulfilled as on 01/10/2017.

(a)Age-based Eligibility
The minimum and maximum age of the candidate should be between 20 and 28 years respectively.

(b) Educational Qualification

• The candidate should possess at least Bachelor’s degree in any discipline, with a minimum aggregate of 50% marks.
• They should have proper knowledge of Word Processing on PC.

RBI Assistant Notification 2017: Total Vacancies

This year, Reserve bank of India has reported a total of 623 vacancies under the recruitment process of Assistants. You can check out the office-wise break up of RBI Assistant vacancy below:

Office	Vacancies
	SC	ST	OBC	General	Total
Ahmedabad	0	7 (4)	4	8	19
Bangalore	6	2	4	13	25
Bhopal	1	12 (5)	0	12	25
Bhubaneswar	5 (2)	3	1	8	17
Chandigarh	4	1	1	7	13
Chennai	3	0	4	8	15
Guwahati	3	9	6	18	36
Hyderabad	4 (1)	1	3	8	16
Jaipur	2	3 (1)	2	6	13
Jammu	2	4 (1)	6	11	23
Kanpur & Lucknow	9	1	12	22	44
Kolkata	9	0	2	12	23
Mumbai	26	31 (7)	78	129	264
Nagpur	0	4	3	8	15
New Delhi	9	0	14	24	47
Patna	7 (2)	1	0	7	15
Thiruvananthapuram & Kochi	2	0	4	7	13
Total	92	79	144	308	623

RBI Assistant Recruitment 2017: Exam Details & Selection Process

• The recruitment process of RBI Assistant 2017 will take place in the following stages:
  (a) Online Preliminary Exam
  (b) Online Mains Exam
  (c) Language Proficiency Test
• For more information, we will share the detailed exam pattern and syllabus shortly.

RBI Assistant 2017: Online Application Fees

Candidates need to pay a certain requisite fee in order to apply online for RBI Assistant Recruitment 2017. Here are the details:

Category	Application Fees5
SC/ST/PWD/EXS	Rs. 50/- (Intimation Charges)
OBC/General candidates	Rs. 450/- (Examination fee+ Intimation Charges)

The candidates need to pay the fees through online mode and the payment can be made by using Debit Cards (RuPay/Visa/MasterCard/Maestro), Credit Cards, Internet Banking, IMPS, Cash Cards/ Mobile Wallets.

All the best for your exams,

SHEAR FORCE AND BENDING MOMENT FORMULAS

BEAM FORMULAS WITH SHEAR AND MOMENT DIAGRAMS

Uniformly Distributed Load
Uniform Load Partially Distributed
Uniform Load Partially Distributed at One End
Uniform Load Partially Distributed at Each End
Load Increasing Uniformly to One End
Load Increasing Uniformly to Center
Concentrated Load at Center
Concentrated Load at Any Point
Two Equal Concentrated Loads Symmetrically Placed
Two Equal Concentrated Loads Unsymmetrical Placed
Two Unequal Concentrated Loads Unsymmetrical Placed
Uniformly Distributed Load
Concentrated Load at Free End
Concentrated Load at Any Point
Beam Fixed at One End, Supported at Other – Uniformly Distributed Load
Beam Fixed at One End, Supported at Other – Concentrated Load at Center
Beam Fixed at One End, Supported at Other – Concentrated Load at Any Point
Beam Overhanging One Support – Uniformly Distributed Load
Beam Overhanging One Support – Uniformly Distributed Load on Overhang
Beam Overhanging One Support – Concentrated Load at End of Overhang
Beam Overhanging One Support – Concentrated Load at Any Point Between Supports
Beam Overhanging Both Supports – Unequal Overhangs – Uniformly Distributed Load
Beam Fixed at Both Ends – Uniformly Distributed Load
Beam Fixed at Both Ends – Concentrated Load at Center
Beam Fixed at Both Ends – Concentrated Load at Any Point
Continuous Beam – Two Equal Spans – Uniform Load on One Span
Continuous Beam – Two Equal Spans – Concentrated Load at Center of One Span
Continuous Beam – Two Equal Spans – Concentrated Load at Any Point
Continuous Beam – Two Equal Spans – Uniformly Distributed Load
Continuous Beam – Two Equal Spans – Two Equal Concentrated Loads Symmetrically Placed
Continuous Beam – Two Unequal Spans – Uniformly Distributed Load
Continuous Beam – Two Unequal Spans – Concentrated Load on Each Span Symmetrically Placed

SHEAR FORCE BENDING MOMENT OF A SIMPLY SUPPORTED BEAM

Shear force and bending moment diagram of simply supported beam can be drawn by first calculating value of shear force and bending moment. Shear force and bending moment values are calculated at supports and  at points where load varies.

SIMPLY SUPPORTED BEAM WITH POINT LOAD EXAMPLE

Draw shear force and bending moment diagram of simply supported beam carrying point load. As shown in figure below.

Solution

First find reactions of simply supported beam.

Both of the reactions will be equal. Since, beam is symmetrical. i.e.,

R1 = R2 = W/2 = 1000 kg.

Now find value of shear force at point A, B and C.

When simply supported beam is carrying point loads. Then find shear force value in sections. Shear force value will remain same up to point load. Value of shear force at point load changes and remain same until any other point load come into action.

Shear force between ( A – B ) = S.F (A-B) = 1000 kg

Shear force between (B – C) = S.F (B -C) = 1000 – 2000

S.F (B – C) = – 1000 kg.

Shear Force Diagram

 

 

Bending Moment

In case of simply supported beam, bending moment will be zero at supports. And it will be maximum where shear force is zero.

Bending moment at Point A and C = M(A) = M(C) = 0

Bending moment at point B = M(B) = R1 x Distance of R1 from point B.

Bending moment at point B = M (B) = 1000 x 2 = 2000 kg.m

Bending Moment Diagram

 

SIMPLY SUPPORT BEAM WITH UDL & POINT LOAD EXAMPLE

Draw shear force and bending moment diagram of simply supported beam carrying uniform distributed load and point loads. As shown in figure.

 

Solution

First find reactions R1 and R2 of simply supported beam.

Reactions will be equal. Since, beam is symmetrical.

R1 = R2 = W/2 = (600 +600 + 200 x4)/2 = 1000kg

Hence, R1 = R2 = 1000 kg.

Shear Force

Shear force between  section A – B = S.F (A – B) = 1000 kg.

Shear force at right side of point B = S.F (B) = 1000 – 600

S. F (B) right = 400 kg.

Now shear force at left side of point C.Because of uniform distributed load, value of shear continuously varies from point B to C.

Shear force at point C (Left) = S.F (L) = 400 – (200×4)

Shear force at point C (Left) = S.F (L) = -400 kg

Shear force between section C – D = S.F (C-D) = -400 – 600

Shear force between section C – D = S.F (C-D) = -1000 kg.

Shear Force Diagram

 

From Shear force, one can see;

• Shear force is maximum at point A and remain same until point load.
• At point B shear force value decreases, because of point load.
• From B to C shear force continuously decreases, because of udl.
• At point C shear force gradually falls, because of point load.
• From point C to D, shear force remain same, because no other point load is acting in this range.

Bending Moment

 B.M WILL BE ZERO AT SUPPORTS. I.E.,

M(A) = M(D) = 0

B.M at points B and C = M(B) = M(C) = 1000 x2 = 200 kg.m

Now, how to find maximum bending moment?

Bending moment will be maximum at point, where shear force is zero.  Hence, bending moment will be maximum at mid point.

M (max) = 1000×4 – 600×2 -200×2(2/2)

M (max) = 2400 kg.m

Bending Moment Diagram

STEPS IN CONSTRUCTING RESIDENTIAL BUILDINGS

Construction of residential building required following paper work before the start of actual construction. These steps are;

1. Preparation of drawings as per requirements of consumers.
2. Estimation of material cost, labor cost & contingencies.
3. Approval of drawings & estimates from Client.
4. Approval of drawings from City Development Authority. It is most important because residential building drawings should meet the authority defined rules.
5. Start of construction work either through contractor or labor hired on daily basis.
6. Marking of plot boundaries.
7. Cleaning of plot.
8. Preparation of site layout as per drawing.

After the completion of documentation work, the actual construction on plot begins. Following are the steps;

EARTH WORK

Generally excavation is carried out for the construction of wall foundations. Excavation should be carried out as per the drawings defined lengths & widths. After excavation, layout the foundation and backfill the remaining excavated area around foundation with soil.

Floor levels of residential buildings are higher than the natural ground level. Fill the area with soil up to floor levels and compact the soil. Now earth work of residential building is finished.

CONCRETE WORK IN FOUNDATION

It is very necessary to check the levels of foundation before concrete work. There are patches where excavated depth slightly exceeds and vice versa. Level the foundation base to same level. Now pour the concrete as per drawing specs. Generally concrete of ratio 1:4:8 is used for foundation. Sometimes it is even 1:5:10 or 1:6:20.

Here 1:4:8 means;

1 part cement per cubic

4 parts of sand per cubic

8 parts of coarse aggregates

Depth of foundation varies from 9” to 18” and normally for most of the cases it is considered as 12’’ depth. Keep foundation width equals to its depth.

DAMP PROOF COARSE (D.P.C)

To protect walls from moisture, a layer of damp proof coarse material is laid down at floor level. Thickness of this concrete layer is 0f 1 inch. Material of damp proof coarse layer consists of concrete ratio 1:1.5:3 with a mixture of water proof material 1kg/bag.

MASONRY WORK

Masonry work is carried out with cement mortar. Cement mortar is a mixture of cement & sand. Ratio of cement mortar varies from 1:4 to 1:6. Here (1:6) mean, 1 part cement and 6 parts of sand. Dampen about 25 bricks with a hose pipe and clean away all loose dirt from the top of footing and moisten about a meter of surface at one end of the foundation with the hose pipe. Throw a mortar line just behind the threaded level line and lay bricks on the mortar bed. Make sure bricks exactly follow the threaded horizontal level line.

LINTEL

Masonry work of buildings is carried out in one go till roof. Openings for windows & doors are left during masonry works. Reinforced cement concrete beams are laid down on the top of openings. So, those loads of structure above openings not directly come on to the door frames.

ROOFING

Roof slab of building is poured after completion of masonry works. Now a days, roofing is of reinforced cement concrete slab. Slab thickness & reinforcement details should be according to approved drawings.

 

PLASTERING & POINTING

Form work is removed after 14 days of slab pouring. Now plaster work begins. Mortar for plaster work is generally of 1:3 or 1:4 is used. Thickness of plaster layer should not be more than 0.75inch. Cure the surface about 7 days. So that, plaster gain proper strength.

Generally, internal walls of buildings are covered with plastered layer and external walls with pointing. It is better plaster the external walls rather than pointing.

DOORS & WINDOWS

Traditionally, doors and windows of woods are used. But, steel & aluminum is also not a bad choice. In case of wooden doors & windows, frames are fixed in walls during masonry work. Panels are then fixed with hinges after plaster work. Steel and aluminum doors are fixed after completion of paint work.

SERVICES

Services are very important for every single house. Different types of services are provided during construction. These are Electricity supply, gas supply, water supply, sanitary etc. Conduits for electric supply are fixed in walls before plastering. Similarly water supply and sanitary lines are also laid before pouring of building floor. Note that gas lines are not fixed in walls or slabs. Gas line remains open in air.

HOW TO TIE REBAR

Steps

1. 
   1
   Plan the project. For structural concrete construction, an engineer and architect will usually do the technical design work and provide specific information regarding the sizes, configuration, and placement of rebar in the associated concrete work. Planning the actual fabrication and placement, as well as the schedule of the work is your first task.
2. 
   2
   Purchase the rebar. For simple projects like typical building foundations and slab reinforcement, you can most likely buy the necessary rebar from a building supply center or home improvement warehouse. For complicated applications such as grade beams, foundation walls, tanks, and other projects, you will need to have specific shapes formed by a rebar fabrication specialist. Here are some examples:

   • Stirrups – These are shaped rebar that hold the lateral reinforcement in a certain configuration, often called a cage. They create a framework that keeps these larger bars in position, and may be round, square, rectangular, or even complex combinations of shapes.
   • Dowels – These are usually L shapes, or straight lengths of rebar with a ninety degree bend on one end.
   • Corner bars – These are also L shapes, with each side of the ell the same length.
   • Offset bends – These range from a simple Z shape to complex angles, used in reinforcing concrete walkway steps and steps (changes in elevation) in concrete footings.
   • Hairpins – These are U shaped rebar that are often used to interlock two or more individual mats of rebar to give lateral strength to the concrete casting.
   • Candy canes – As the name implies, these are straight lengths of rebar with a Ushaped bend on one or both ends, again to interlock two or more parallel reinforcing mats.
3. 
   3
   Consult your reinforcing placement drawings/plan. If you purchase your rebar from a fabricator, the supplier will usually review your structural engineer’s or architect’s plans and produce a shop drawing with details and identifying tags for each type of rebar used in the project. For simpler projects, your building plans should provide spacing requirements and bar sizes. Use these documents to determine where and what rebar is needed in individual locations.
4. 
   4
   Choose the method you will use to tie the rebar. Most times, rebar is tied with annealed steel wire, either bought in four pound bulk rolls, or if using a bag tiespinner, in bundles of precut wire pieces with loops formed on both ends. The latter are easier for novices to use, but somewhat more expensive, the former is often the choice of experience rebar tiers (rodbusters).
5. 
   5
   Prepare the area where the concrete is to be placed. The ground should be graded and compacted after any needed subgrading, excavations, and underground rough ins for plumbing and electrical utilities is finished. Lay out the actual perimeter or form lines for the concrete placement after the grading and compaction and associated testing is done.
6. 
   6
   Decide whether the concrete forms will be installed prior to placing your rebar.For large footings where heavy rebar is to be used, the formwork usually is done first, for concrete walls and grade beams, one side of the form may be built prior to tying the rebar, but the rebar will need to be tied in place before the formwork is completed so bars can be positioned and tied in place. For concrete slabs, the subgrade (ground underneath the slab) is often pre-treated for termites, and a moisture barrier or dampproofing is installed before the mat is tied.
7. 
   7
   Shake out the rebar. This involves removing individual bars, stirrups, and dowels from their respective bundles according to the placement drawing counts. An example would be a slab measuring 12 feet (3.7 m) by 12 feet (3.7 m) with rebars at 8 inch (20.3 cm) centers in one direction, and 12 inch (30.5 cm) centers the other. Determine the size of bars required in each direction, mark two or three bars with the appropriate layout measurements in each direction, and count the marks to determine how many rebar are required for each direction. Often, the placement drawings are specific, such as “18 (number 5) rebar, 11 foot 6 inches (15.2 cm) long, one half each way“. This gives the following information: You need the given quantity, 18, rebar, size 5 (5/8 inch diameter), with 9 bars laying in each direction, the top rows perpendicular to the bottom ones.
8. 
   8
   Tie your rebar. This is the primary focus of this article. Tying the bars so that they remain in their correct respective positions is critical to achieve the desired strength of the completed concrete structure.
9. 
   9
   Place each rebar in its respective position according to the layout described in the previous steps. The layout bars (or mark bars) can be marked with a soapstone marker, a paint pen, a piece of lumber crayon, or with spray paint.
10. 
    10
    Select the appropriate type of tie you will use. For the bag ties (Snap Ties, not to be confused with the snap ties described later). For ordinary slab mats, where the force of the concrete interacting with the rebar during its placement is minimal, and movement of the mats is unlikely, using a simple, single twist of wire around each rebar intersection, twisted together tightly, will suffice. This tie is known as a snap tie, and can be made with the snap tie precut ties and a spinner, noted earlier. It can also be done easily with a pair of 9 inch (22.9 cm) lineman’s pliers and bulk wire held on the rodbuster’s workbelt in a wire reel. For other applications where the force of the concrete placement may displace the rebars, or where more strength is needed to hold bars in the proper configuration, more complicated ties may be used. Here are some of them, with a simplified description of how they are made:

    • Figure 8 ties – These are made by pulling the wire around the rear (from the rodbuster) bar, diagonally across the front bar, back around the rear bar, diagonally in the opposite direction across the front bar, and then twisting back around the beginning wire. You then cut the wire feeding off the reel, and bend the cut ends back towards the tie so no sharp ends project from the tie. These ties will help hold perpendicular bars tightly together while helping to prevent them from racking, or moving diagonally.
    • Saddle ties – Similar to the figure 8 tie, you begin by passing the wire feeding from your reel behind the rear bar, then across the front bar staying parallel to the bar. You then pass it behind the rear bar again, back around the front bar on the opposite side. You now twist the ends together, cut the feed wire, and bend the cut ends back. This tie is often used when tying rebar for walls or other vertical application where the rodbuster will actually climb on the rebar framework to access higher portions of the wall. The figure 8 and saddle tie can often be interchanged, however, technically speaking, there are advantages to each one in certain circumstances.
    • Combinations of figure 8 and saddle ties with additional wraps around vertical rebars can be used to increase the hold of the tie so bars cannot slip downward when weight is applied to them or the plastic concrete is dropped into the form.
11. 
    11
    Use your pliers for tying these ties efficiently. For all the above mentioned ties, you pull the feeding end from the wire reel with your non-dominant (hereafter regarded as left, please reverse for right handed persons) hand. Grip the end of the wire with your pliers in your right hand, and poke, or push it behind the rebar described in the first step of your chosen tie. Bend or angle the end toward the place you will be grabbing the end in the next step of the tie, then reach from that side, grip it again with the pliers, pull it toward the next place you will route it to, pulling enough slack wire to complete the tie. Hold resistance on the wire with your left hand, so the wire bends snugly against the bar you are wrapping in each stage of the tie. Release the wire so that the pliers can be used to grip it, and do so, pulling the end around the bar and twist the two ends of the wire together. Pull or tug the wire with the pliers so the tie is tight.
12. 
    12
    Tie all the bars required in their correct positions. Check your plans to make sure each component of the reinforcement is in place. Often, in structural concrete reinforcement, you will find several elements that interface together in addition to the basic rebar mat discussed so far. Here are a few to note:

    • Block dowels – When placing a concrete foundation which will have concrete masonry units (block) erected on it, you will usually find the plans require installing block dowels, or vertical rebar to reinforce cells at a required spacing to give the subsequent block wall sufficient strength to withstand conditions to which it will be exposed, or to help it support loads it will carry as an overall part of the structure you are building. These bars are tied to the foundation rebar (footing bars) in a location that will place them in the center of individual block cells. For them to be placed correctly, you will need to establish the wall line, then determine the spacing of these cells. If your layout begins at a corner, using 8X16 inch regular block, you can place the first dowel 4 inches (10.2 cm) inside the outside wall line, 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the corner, then space additional bars at their required distances in multiples of 8 inches (20.3 cm). For example, at 16, 24, or 32 inch centers. This is known as blockwork spacing.
    • Bulkhead dowels – In instances where a footing will not be completed in a single concrete placement, you will need to dowel out of the bulkhead form so the next placement will be structurally tied to the latter one. Make sure the dowels extend far enough that the lateral reinforcement will overlap enough to maintain the strength of the rods used. Typically, rebar lap is calculated in bar diameters. An example would be the number 5 rebar mentioned earlier. It has a diameter of 5/8 of an inch, and the required lap might be 40 bar diameters. Multiplying the diameter 5/8 by 40, you will get ²⁰⁰⁄₈ or 25 inches (63.5 or 63.5 cm).
    • Note that in structural concrete, other types of imbeds and inserts may be required. Place rebar in such a manner as to allow installation of anchor bolts, sleeves, embedded weld plates, inserts, or other items in their respective correct locations without interference. In general terms, these items require more precise positioning, so offsetting one or two rebars may be required.
13. 
    13
    Chair or support your rebar. Once the mat or cage is assembled, you must hold it in position so the the concrete will cover it completely. Rebar chairs or concrete brick are often used for this purpose. Place these positioners at a spacing that will not allow the rebar to bend or deflect enough to reduce the coverage you wish to obtain with the concrete you place in you forms. For a 12 inch (30.5 cm) thick footing, the rebar mat is usually placed about 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the bottom of the concrete, and side clearances range from 2 to 4 inches (5.1 to 10.2 cm).
14. 
    14
    Observe the rebar configuration while the concrete is placed. If shifting occurs, support the rebars with a handled tool like a shovel wedged so that you can achieve sufficient leverage to hold its position, or alter the direction of flowing concrete so force is applied in the opposite direction.
15. 
    15
    Cap or otherwise protect any exposed bars while working near them. Rebar that is sheared, or mechanically cut has very sharp surfaces at the location of these cuts. Construction workers have suffered serious injuries and have also been killed when they have fallen on projecting rebar dowels. Special rod caps made of high impact plastic with a metal plate embedded in them are required by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), in the United States.

HOW TO DETERMINE BUILDING CONSTRUCTION TYPE

Determining a building’s construction type is dependent on quite a number of different factors and requires a keen eye for detail. If you would like to be able to identify a building’s construction type, start with Step 1 below for an overview of how it’s done. You will also find specific information on all six building types.

Method1

Overview for Assessing Construction Type

1. 
   1
   How building class is determined: All buildings must be classified into one of six construction classes (see number 3). Classification of a building class is based on two factors: building elements and fire-resistance rating. These factors may not be included in the submission/documentation, in which case additional information will need to be requested.

   • Building elements: The building materials used in the construction of the following elements are the foundation for classification, be they wood, steel, or masonry.
     • Structural frame
     • Exterior bearing walls
     • Interior bearing walls
     • Exterior nonbearing walls and partitions
     • Interior non-bearing walls and partitions
     • Floor construction, including supporting beams and joists
     • Roof construction, including supporting beams and joists, are comprised of
   • Fire-resistance rating: This is the other factor in determining construction class. The building materials used in the construction of the building elements above will have a fire-resistance rating. Fire-resistance rating typically means the duration for which a passive fire protection system can withstand a standard fire resistance test. This can be quantified simply as a measure of time (ex. 0 hours, 1 hour, or 2 hours), or it may entail a host of other criteria involving other evidence of functionality or fitness for purpose.
     • “Minimum” rule: It is important to remember when selecting the construction class that the building is only as strong as its weakest element. For example, a masonry building may have an unprotected wood roof. The wood roof is the weakest member such that it has no fire-resistance. Thus, the construction class would be Joisted Masonry (see below). Now imagine this same building with a metal deck roof. So long as the supporting members of the building do not contain wood then this building would be Masonry Noncombustible (see below).
2. 
   2
   What to ask: To determine the ISO class of the building, we must therefore know the following composition of the building elements:

   • Structural frame
   • Bearing walls (interior and exterior)
   • Floor construction
   • Roof construction
   • What the fire rating of the materials
3. 
   3
   Building classes: All construction types must be classified into the following (all of which are explained extensively below):

   • Frame Construction (ISO Class I, IBC Type V)
   • Joisted Masonry (ISO Class 2, IBC Type III, IBC Type IV)
   • Light Noncombustible (ISO Class 3, IBC Type IIB)
   • Masonry Noncombustible (ISO Class 4, IBC Type IIA)
   • Modified Fire Resistive (ISO Class 5, IBC Type IB)
   • Fire Resistive (ISO Class 6, IBC Type IA)
4. 
   4
   International Building Code (IBC) versus Insurance Services Office (ISO): These are two major sources identifying construction types, both of which will be addressed in the construction types outlined below. ISO is traditionally what insurance companies use to denote type, whereas IBC is what architects and builders use. While one company may use ISO classifications, many submission documents may reference IBC classifications and it is important to be able to convert this to an ISO classification. (There have been situations where a frame building has been incorrectly classified as fire resistive because the submittal was read incorrectly!) The following explains what is expected under both:

   • International Building Code (IBC): This is a model building code developed by the International Code Council (ICC). It has been adopted throughout most of the United States. A large portion of the International Building Code deals with fire prevention. It differs from the related International Fire Code in that the IBC handles fire prevention in regards to construction and design and the fire code handles fire prevention in an ongoing basis. Parts of the code reference other codes including the International Plumbing Code, the International Mechanical Code, the National Electric Code, and various National Fire Protection Association Standards. IBC is more descriptive and also includes A or B types of construction for each class.
     • A is protected, meaning that all structural members of a building or structure have an additional fire rated coating or cover by means of sheetrock, spray on, or other approved method. The additional fire rated coating or cover extends the fire resistance of the structural members by at least 1 hour.
     • B is unprotected, meaning that all structural members of a building or structure have no additional fire rated coating or cover. Exposed members are only fire resistant according to their natural ability, characteristics, and fire rating.
   • Insurance Services Office (ISO): This is a provider of data, underwriting, risk management, and legal/regulatory services to property-casualty insurers and other clients.

Method2

EditFrame Construction (ISO Class I, IBC Type V)

1. 
   1
   Classification: Frame construction is ISO Class 1. ISO Class 1 encompasses IBC Type VA and IBC Type VB. Regardless of whether the IBC classification is A (protected) or B (unprotected) the ISO Class is 1.
2. 
   2
   Building elements:

   • Frame buildings are buildings with exterior walls, floors, and roofs with combustible construction — or buildings with exterior walls of noncombustible or slow-burning construction with combustible floors and roofs.
   • Frame buildings generally have roof, floor, and supports of combustible material, usually wood, and combustible interior walls.
   • Two variations on frame construction don’t change the construction class:
     • Masonry veneer (brick veneer)- Masonry veneer is thin layers of brick, stone, or stucco, used for appearance purposes rather than structural support.
     • Metal clad – A building with a metal exterior wall may not look like frame construction, but when the metal skin is attached to wood studs and joists, ISO classifies the building as frame.
   • Other conditions that lead to classification as frame construction include:
     • Metal walls or floors sheathed with combustible materials
     • Metal floors or roofs with combustible insulation or ceiling material attached to the underside or within 18 inches (45.7 cm) of horizontal supports
     • Composite assemblies of noncombustible materials with combustible materials
3. 
   3
   Advantages:

   • easy to erect and alter
   • economical
   • versatile
   • performs well in Earthquake areas – can move
4. 
   4
   Disadvantages:

   • fire can spread rapidly
   • highly damageable
   • may become unstable in a fire
   • may include enclosed spaces where fire can spread undetected

Method3

EditJoisted Masonry (ISO Class 2, IBC Type III, IBC Type IV)

1. 
   1
   Classification: Joisted Masonry construction is ISO Class 2. ISO Class 2 encompasses IBC Type IIIA and IBC Type IIIB. Regardless of whether the IBC classification is A (protected) or B (unprotected) the ISO Class is 2. IBC Type IV is Heavy Timber construction and is considered ISO Class 2. The reason is that the heavy timbers perform well and do not fail early in a fire.
2. 
   2
   Building elements: Joisted Masonry buildings are buildings with exterior walls of masonry or fire-resistive construction rated for not less than one hour and with combustible floors and roofs. There are several types of masonry used in the exterior bearing walls of joisted masonry buildings:

   • brick
   • concrete — either reinforced or non reinforced
   • hollow concrete masonry units
   • tile
   • stone
   • note that exterior bearing walls may also be any noncombustible materials with fire-resistance ratings of not less than one hour
3. 
   3
   Variations: There’s one variation on joisted masonry construction that doesn’t change the construction class — heavy timber or mill construction. Heavy timber construction uses wood members much larger than those found in frame (Construction Class 1) or other joisted masonry construction. If the building uses steel columns or beams for walls, the beams must be protected so they have a fire-resistance rating of not less than one hour. Heavy Timber Construction (IBC Type IV); ISO classifies the building as heavy timber construction if it meets these requirements:

   • walls of masonry construction
   • floors of 3 inch (7.6 cm) wood plank or 4 inch (10.2 cm) laminated plank, both surfaced with 1 inch (2.5 cm) flooring
   • roof of 2 inch (5.1 cm) wood plank, 3 inch (7.6 cm) laminated plank, or 1-1/8 inch tongue-and-groove plywood deck
   • wood column supports not less than 8 inch (20.3 cm) x 8 inch (20.3 cm), wood beams or girders not less than 6 inch (15.2 cm) x 6 inch (15.2 cm), or protected metal
4. 
   4
   Advantages:

   • harder to ignite
   • consumed more slowly by fire
   • more structural stability
   • greater salvage value
   • lack of concealed spaces (Heavy Timber)
5. 
   5
   Disadvantages:

   • floors and roofs of combustible materials subject to damage by fire
   • presence of concealed spaces

Method4

EditLight Noncombustible (ISO Class 3, IBC Type IIB)

1. 
   1
   Classification: Light Noncombustible construction is ISO Class 3. ISO Class 3 encompasses IBC Type IIB (unprotected).
2. 
   2
   Building elements: Light Noncombustible buildings are buildings with exterior walls of light metal or other noncombustible material and with noncombustible floors and roofs:

   • buildings with exterior walls, floors, and roofs of noncombustible or slow-burning materials
   • building supports of noncombustible or slow-burning materials
   • noncombustible or slow-burning roof decks on noncombustible or slow-burning supports — regardless of the type of insulation on the roof surface
3. 
   3
   Advantages:

   • easy to erect
   • economical to build
   • uses materials that don’t readily burn
4. 
   4
   Disadvantages:

   • contains steel, which loses strength at high temperatures
   • highly damageable buildings
   • unstable buildings under fire conditions
   • uses slow-burning materials that do burn — adding fuel to a fire

Method5

EditMasonry Noncombustible (ISO Class 4, IBC Type IIA)

1. 
   1
   Classification: Masonry Noncombustible construction is ISO Class 4. ISO Class 4 encompasses IBC Type Type IIA (protected).
2. 
   2
   Building elements: Masonry Noncombustible buildings are buildings with exterior walls of masonry material and with noncombustible or slow burning floors and roofs.

   • buildings with exterior walls of masonry — not less than four inches thick, or
   • buildings with exterior walls of fire-resistive construction — with a rating of not less than one hour, and
   • noncombustible or slow-burning floors and roofs — regardless of the type of insulation on the roof surface
3. 
   3
   Advantages:

   • Uses floors and roof supported by superior exterior bearing members that provide for stability and are less likely to collapse during a fire
   • Uses materials that don’t readily burn
4. 
   4
   Disadvantages:

   • Uses unprotected steel for interior members of floors and roof, and steel loses strength and becomes less stable and more damageable at high temperatures
   • Uses slow-burning materials that do burn — adding fuel to a fire

Method6

EditModified Fire Resistive (ISO Class 5, IBC Type IB)

1. 
   1
   Classification: Modified Fire Resistive construction is ISO Class 5. ISO Class 5 encompasses IBC Type IB.
2. 
   2
   Building elements: Modified Fire Resistive Buildings are buildings where the exterior bearing walls and load-bearing portions of exterior walls must be of noncombustible materials or of masonry, but exterior nonbearing walls and wall panels may be slow-burning, combustible, or with no fire- resistance rating.

   • Buildings with exterior walls, floors, and roofs of masonry materials described in the definition of fire resistive (Construction Class 6) — less thick than required for fire-resistive structures but not less than four inches thick, or
   • Fire-resistive materials with a fire-resistance rating less than two hours but not less than one hour
3. 
   3
   Variations:

   • Structural steel protection: Note that modified fire-resistive buildings also include structural steel protection techniques — fire-protection material applied to steel. Materials include:
     • concrete
     • plaster
     • clay tile
     • brick or other masonry units
     • gypsum block
     • gypsum wallboard
     • mastic coatings
     • mineral and fiberboard
     • mineral wool
   • Ceilings protecting steel beams or joists: What happens when there is no fire-protection material applied to steel beams or joists that support floors or roofs? ISO still considers a building modified fire resistive if it has a suitable ceiling. Ceilings can be plaster or gypsum wallboard or suspended mineral tile. The entire floor-ceiling (a fire-resistive ceiling protecting a floor) or roof-ceiling (a fire-resistive ceiling protecting roof supports) should conform to construction details in a UL-listed or Factory Mutual (FM)-approved design. ISO individually evaluates each approved design.
4. 
   4
   Advantages:

   • uses noncombustible materials
   • allows greater height and area than other construction classes
   • uses load-bearing members or assemblies that resist damage from fire
5. 
   5
   Disadvantages:

   • expensive to construct and repair
   • provides a false sense of security

Method7

EditFire Resistive (ISO Class 6, IBC Type IA)

1. 
   1
   Classification: Fire Resistive construction is ISO Class 6. ISO Class 6 encompasses IBC Type IA.
2. 
   2
   Building elements: The exterior bearing walls and load-bearing portions of exterior walls must be of noncombustible materials or of masonry, but exterior nonbearing walls and wall panels may be slow-burning, combustible, or with no fire-resistance rating.

   • Walls:
     • solid masonry, including reinforced concrete not less than four inches thick
     • hollow masonry not less than 12 inches (30.5 cm) thick
     • hollow masonry less than 12 inches (30.5 cm) thick, but not less than eight inches thick with a listed fire-resistance rating of not less than two hours
     • assemblies with not less than a two-hour fire-resistance rating
   • Floors and roofs:
     • reinforced concrete not less than four inches thick
     • assemblies with not less than a two-hour fire-resistance rating
   • Structural metal supports:
     • Horizontal and vertical load-bearing protected metal supports — including pre-stressed and post-tensioned concrete units — with not less than a two-hour fire-resistance rating
3. 
   3
   Variations:

   Both pre- and post-tensioned concrete units have steel cables installed in the concrete to provide tensile strength. With pre-stressed concrete units, builders pull the cables tight before pouring the concrete and release them as the concrete cures. With post-tensioned concrete units, builders pull one end of the cable tight after pouring the concrete.
4. 
   4
   Advantages:

   • uses noncombustible materials
   • allows greater height and area than other construction classes
   • uses load-bearing members or assemblies that resist damage from fire
5. 
   5
   Disadvantages:

   • expensive to construct and repair
   • provides a false sense of security

HOW TO BUILD A HOUSE

Building your dream home can be one of the most exciting and rewarding projects you can undertake. Getting the opportunity to plan out each step of the process and make the decisions about your building project is a big responsibility, and can be overwhelming for even the most experienced do-it-yourselfers. Taking the scope of the project into account before you get started can help make the process go a lot more smoothly. Learn the proper ways to find the right location, design your home, acquire the correct permits, and breaking ground. See Step 1 to learn how to get started building your own house.

Part1

Finding a Location

1. 
   1
   Select a desirable place for your house. There are many factors to consider when finding a suitable location on which to build your home. Think about a place you’d like to live long-term and keep in mind things like:

   • Climate. Special considerations must be made for building in flood, hurricane, intense heat, frigid cold, and other extreme weather and climatic conditions.
   • Ground stability. Houses built on shifting sand, mucky soil, or other unstable earth will likely fail over a short period of time unless they are built on special foundations or pilings.
   • Availability of utilities. If you intend to have electric power, potable water, telephone, and other conveniences, make sure these utility providers offer them at your location.
   • Community infrastructure. If you plan to raise children or have kids, make sure good quality schools are available. Check to see if you are in a police jurisdiction to protect you from crime, look at the distance you will have to travel to acquire basic commodities, and whether medical help is nearby.
2. 
   2
   Select the property on which you are going to build and purchase it. This may be a hurdle, depending on the cost, and your available funds. Building a house is an expensive process, but purchasing suitable property is also a major investment just as important as homebuilding. Decide how you’re going to pay for your building project going forward and start that process with the land.

   • Some home builders will elect to get a construction loan to purchase the land and secure funding for the building project. This requires that you enter into a contract with a builder or a contractor, and the loan must reference that builder’s resume and serve as a contract between you and the builder, as well as a source of funding for the project. To do this, you’ll need to wait until you’ve hired and vetted a builder before purchasing the land.^[1]
3. 
   3
   Have the property surveyed and the footprint of the house located. This is not absolutely necessary, especially if you are building on a large parcel of land, but if there is any doubt about the property lines, have this done to assure you are not encroaching on a neighbor’s property, or the city’s. This will be useful as you move forward with the building process.
4. 
   4
   Consider access issues. On large parcels, especially, you will need to ascertain the route for a usable driveway if you depend on a car for transportation. Look at any low area that would become impassable in winter mud or heavy summer rain, how installing driveway will affect the landscape, and whether a driveway will be in conflict with underground utilities.

   • Pay particular attention to the way surface water will drain off the property. Every effort should be made so that water drains off and away from the driveway. This may require the placement of culverts or pipes under the driveway to avoid puddling along its sides.

Part2

Designing Your Home

1. 
   1
   Design your own home, or consult an architect. Architects and engineers have special training and years of experience in designing houses, and are necessary for most building and zoning jurisdiction code requirements. Regardless of whether you contract their services or elect to design your own, the house you build will be built for you, so you should be involved closely in the design process.

   • Before you hire or consult an architect, find out what management services the firm may or may not provide. Some architecture firms will help hire contractors they know and trust, as well as consult and inspect the contractor’s work as it progresses, making necessary revisions and additions as the work progresses. This can be a significant headache relief in the process.^[2]
   • Before building, you’ll need to submit plans to the city or county building commission for approval. Unless you’re an experienced architect, it’ll be very difficult to produce the necessary to-scale production drawings and engineering specs necessary for approval. To save time, energy, and money, it’s recommended that you consult a professional and work alongside them to design the home you want.
2. 
   2
   Design the living spaces. The fun part of designing a home is imagining your new life in your new space. Spend some time researching pre-drawn floor plans for inspiration and consider using them as a guide for your own space. Home building guides are commonly available for free online.^[3] Give lots of thought to what kind of rooms you want, the number of bedrooms that will be necessary for your family, and what sort of a style you want in the rooms you’ll be spending the most time in.

   • Bedrooms: For a family house where the possibility of additions exists, remember it is simpler to add a room during initial construction than to remodel or build an addition later. If you only need 2 bedrooms at present, an extra room might be used for an office, storage, or even left unfinished and unfurnished until such time as it is needed.
   • Bathrooms: In practical terms, one bathroom can suffice in almost any circumstances, but if the house is for multiple people, two makes life much easier. Having two or more bathrooms will also increase the resale value in the convenience minded home buyer’s mind.
   • Special function rooms: Consider if your lifestyle requires rooms suitable for special functions, such as formal dining, office space, a den, or a play room.
3. 
   3
   Design the utility areas with an eye toward function. For family life, having a laundry room, and possibly even a garage can be a real help in managing day to day chores. Planning out the necessary house-running spaces is a critical part of the design process. It’s also important to design them to be as easy-to-wire and outfit with plumbing as possible, making it important to consult an architectural engineer when designing the home. Carefully design your:

   • Kitchen
   • Garage
   • Laundry room
   • Storage areas
4. 
   4
   Place windows with the maximum energy efficiency in mind. Part aesthetics and part energy-efficiency, designing your home with an eye toward sunlight will ensure that your home stays full of warm radiant light when it needs it the most. If you are building a home with large windows in a living room, consider facing these toward the most appealing view and at an angle that maximizes the natural lighting when you’ll want it most.^[4]

   • Kitchens may benefit the most from exterior light, so think about what time a ray of sunshine in the kitchen will offer the best results. Late afternoon may be cooking and dish washing time, so it may be best to orient the kitchen towards the west to take advantage. Larger windows on the north/south face of your house will also help heat the house through solar gain in colder climates.
   • If you live on the northern hemisphere, build your windows facing the south. If you live on the southern hemisphere, build your windows facing the north.
5. 
   5
   Prepare to tackle water drainage issues with the proper design. Be aware of how surface water (rain, snow melt, drainage from seasonal springs) moves across the building site. It is critical to keep water away from your home, especially in colder climates. Freezing pipes and foundation damage can result from a failure to plan at this stage. You want to keep your basement dry and lessen the chance that you will have damp wood, which invites termites in any climate. Simple swales or grassy ditches will go a long way in controlling surface water drainage.

Part3

Getting the Necessary Permits

1. 
   1
   Secure a construction loan. If you haven’t already started this process when securing the land, you’ll need to figure out a way to fund the project and a construction loan is the most recommended method of doing so. Apply for a construction loan by filling out a loan application, called a 1003, and submitting it to a loan officer along with a credit report.^[5] The completed loan application will need to include information like:

   • The type of loan requested
   • The amount of money requested
   • Your current living situation
   • Your social security number
   • W-2 info
2. 
   2
   Get construction insurance. To engage in a homebuilding project, you’ll need three types of construction-related insurance, some of which may be provided by the builder, some of which won’t, depending on the state you live in and the nature of the contract you’ve signed. Typically, it’s required that you provide:

   • Course of Construction Insurance to cover against unforeseen loss including damages from fire, accident, vandalism and malicious mischief.
   • General Liability Insurance is sometimes provided by the builder and sometimes not. It is a comprehensive liability coverage against accident on the workplace. You should only hire builders who provide this insurance themselves, as it can be quite expensive and could be indicative of shoddy workmanship if a builder doesn’t provide it.
   • Workman’s Compensation Insurance is necessary if your builder hires their own workers. If the work is subcontracted (a common practice) you’ll need to provide workman’s comp and the builder must write a letter acknowledging that they do not have employees and will not provide compensation.
3. 
   3
   Secure the proper construction permits. A building permit is a basic requirement in many areas, particularly for permanent construction. To obtain this, you’ll need to provide detailed architectural diagrams, engineering load specs, and other materials to your state’s Department of Housing. It’s likely you’ll also need the following to comply with local codes and zoning requirements by obtaining:

   • A septic tank permit
   • An electrical permit
   • A plumbing permit
   • A mechanical (HVAC, or air conditioning) permit
   • You may also find you are required to apply for and receive an environmental and/or impact permit. Having the house location marked prior to obtaining your permits will help to work details out in the environmental permitting process.
4. 
   4
   Prepare an Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB). This is the breakdown of each particular cost of construction of the home. The foundation, lumber, framing, plumbing, heating, electrical, painting, and builder’s profit, etc. When you hire a builder, they will usually complete this form to show you exactly what it will cost to build your new home.

   • Price building materials in the area. How much is the cost of wood in the prospective area? Labor? Vinyl? It’s helpful to give some thought to how much the process will end up costing, aside from the land purchase itself. Try to get a rough estimate of how much it’ll cost to build the kind of house you want to build at the location you’re considering.
5. 
   5
   Decide how much of the actual construction you will do yourself. Building a house involves several specific trades to ensure quality work, so it is usually better to have trained craftsmen perform things you’re unable to do at an expert-level. You can probably paint the house and put up drywall yourself, but maybe you want to hire those jobs out. Try to find an economic and practical balance between doing projects yourself to save money and hiring out more intricate and difficult work. Consider hiring out:

   • Site workers to clear and grade the land, prepping it for building
   • Bricklayers to lay the foundation
   • Framers to perform rough carpentry, frame up the walls, and install the trusses or stick-framed rafters
   • Roofers to install the roof and insulate the house
   • Electricians, plumbers, and HVAC workers to do the difficult interior work of outfitting the home for living
   • Trim and finish carpenters for interior design work
   • Flooring installers to lay the carpet, hardwood, or tile
6. 
   6
   Consider hiring a builder on contract. Everything will be made easier if you hire an experienced builder to oversee the project. You won’t need to worry about doing everything yourself, hiring out particular tasks, and securing the permits yourself. It’s also much easier to secure a construction loan if you’re working with an experienced builder who can include a statement, resume, banking and experience references, a line item cost breakdown of expected costs (an ECB), a materials list, and a construction contract.^[6] The contract should include:

   • The individual responsibilities of each party
   • The expected date of the beginning and ending of the project
   • The payment expected by the builder
   • A completed Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB), signed and dated
   • Provisions for changes

Part4

Breaking Ground

1. 
   1
   Lay the foundation. After a site crew excavates the plot, you’ll begin the work of laying the foundation. The type and design of the foundation will depend upon the size of your house, the ground in which its laid, local building codes, and whether or not your home will have a basement. The most recommended and strongest type of foundation is concrete block.

   • The excavation crew should first survey and stake the dimensions of the foundation and excavate it to the desired depth, then smooth it out to a workable surface, sometimes overlaying dirt or gravel to build upon.^[7]
2. 
   2
   Pour the concrete foundation on which to build. These are used to distribute the weight evenly and should be somewhat wider than the foundation walls, forming the perimeter of the home.

   • Build the form work and fill in with concrete. The form work is basically a mold for concrete, used to pour into and remove after the concrete has set. Alternatively, a block foundation can be laid which won’t be removed, in which case you’ll inlay rebar into the block and fill in the gaps in the block with concrete.
   • The thickness of the foundation should be determined carefully by a structural engineer, taking into consideration the height of the wall and the load it will be required to bear, both in terms of the building itself as well as the forces of gravity, wind, and earth that affect the structure.
3. 
   3
   Set up building lines. This means putting either batter boards or corner stakes at each corner of the house foundation to level and square up the foundation. Use a transit or building level to make sure the building lines are level and square, and check by measuring corner to corner, diagonally, to make sure the walls and corners are square.
4. 
   4
   Install your chosen type of floor. There are two common floor types, called “slab on grade” or “pier and beam/joist” floors. Before pouring the slab floor, you need to make sure you’ve installed rough plumbing lines so that they are accurately placed. After the slab is poured, it’ll be too late to adjust.

   • For a slab-on-grade floor, form up the footing to the proper specs and lay rebar. Generally, these floors are made on concrete block foundations. After installing your plumbing rough-ins, backfill around the foundation with dirt and gravel, compacting it appropriately. At this point, you may also want to pre-treat for termites and install moisture barrier.
   • For off-grade or above-grade floors, lay out and install wooden flooring piers and install your floor joist framing system to the proper specifications. Install subfloor/finish floor decking.

Part5

Building the Walls and Roof

1. 
   1
   Frame the walls of your house. You will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor, beginning at one corner, marking your bottom plate (called the rat sill) to attach to anchor bolts.

   • As you work, mark the location of doors, windows, and interior wall corners on the sill. Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of walls as required by code for storm and earthquake proofing.^[8]
   • Use tees at wall intersections, substantial headers for openings in load bearing walls, and allow space at each rough opening for the feature to be installed.
2. 
   2
   Plumb the walls and brace them securely. Install sheathing if required. Otherwise, use sheet metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all studs (vertical framing members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch (5 cm by 10 cm) nominal lumber, graded standard or better) are securely nailed in place, straight and square to the wall line.
3. 
   3
   Lay out the marks for setting your roof trusses. You may want to stick frame your roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially if you want a usable attic space). Prefab trusses, however, are engineered with lighter, smaller lumber for maximum strength. There are some trusses for attics with high-pitched roofs and dormers, as well as more traditional roofs. Research your options and choose something that works well for your home.
4. 
   4
   Set each truss in the correct location. Generally, this means 24 inches (61.0 cm) apart from one another, sometimes 16 inches (40.6 cm) for stick-bracing structures. Attach hurricane clips or other connectors to secure them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily support them with a rat run bracing near the peak.

   • Install diagonal gable bracing for a roof with gable ends to prevent the roof frame from leaning when you install the roof decking. For a hip roof, install king rafters and hip rafters, being careful to keep the adjacent plane of the roof consistent and straight.^[9]
5. 
   5
   Nail a sub-facia board to connect the ends of each rafter. Build outlookers to support the gable overhang and gable facia boards, if used. Deck the trusses or rafters with plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber such as 1 x 6 inch (2.5 cm x 15 cm) tongue and groove boards.

   • In areas where high winds or snow-loading (accumulation) is possible, make sure the roof decking is secured and structurally able to withstand these severe forces and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this scope of work.
6. 
   6
   Install roofing felt for use as a moisture barrier. To make sure the elements don’t set you back as you’re working, it’s important to install a moisture barrier on your roof even before it’s completed. Use 15 or 30 pound (6.8 or 13.8 kg) roofing felt tar paper and simplex nails, roofing tacks, or plastic capped felting tacks to secure it. Begin felting the decking at the lower edge, allowing it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep water from getting under this moisture barrier.
7. 
   7
   Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors.Many locations require some type of metal flashing to prevent water from penetrating the edges and the gables, but you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is permitted and you are able.
8. 
   8
   Install your final roof. You may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel formed to lengths needed on site, or shingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials, depending on your preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge vents, attic exhaust fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase the comfort of your house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates.

Part6

Starting on the Interior

1. 
   1
   Install pipes for potable water, waste drains, and drain vents in walls. These can be capped off to trim out after the walls are finished, especially if the local codes require pressure testing before finishing may be done.
2. 
   2
   Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant piping. Stub out your ductwork for return air and supply air registers. Insulate the ductwork if it is not pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed to prevent movement and ensure the your conduits are flush.
3. 
   3
   Rough-in electrical outlets. Most likely, there will be electrical outlets, light fixtures, and special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and air conditioning that will be necessary to do as soon as possible. Install the main electrical panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring from these to each device.

   • Commonly, #12 Romex cable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet circuits, and nail-in electrical boxes are attached to the wall studs, with the front edge protruding to allow for the finished wall material to be flush.
4. 
   4
   Install insulation. Insulate walls where it is required. Depending on the climate, you will want to get location-specific guidelines for this area of work, as warmer climates will use substantially less insulation in the walls than warmer areas. Insulate the spaces between ceiling joists and walls.^[10]

   • Walls are usually insulated with a minimum R-value of 13, and ceilings with a minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even more for lowering fuel and utility usage.
5. 
   5
   Install your ceilings. Gypsum wallboard made of drywall or sheetrock is a common material used for this application, but there are other products including acoustical ceiling tiles, beaded plywood paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural wood lumber that are commonly used for creating solid ceilings.

Part7

Installing the Essentials

1. 
   1
   Install plumbing fixtures as necessary. Install the bathtub, shower enclosure, and any other large plumbing fixtures which will interface with finished walls. Make sure plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes are protected and securely anchored.
2. 
   2
   Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls. Traditionally, builders will use gypsum wallboard, wood, or masonite paneling for this purpose. Panels are generally jacked ³⁄₈ inch (1.0 cm) above the floor to avoid moisture from floor spills and regular mopping when you clean the house. There are many interior wall products available, so the installation process will depend on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wallboard, taping and skimming/floating all joints to an acceptable level of finish. Finish/texture any ceilings during this step if applicable.
3. 
   3
   Place wall trim. Put up any trim you are using for baseboards, crown mouldings, and corners, and install your interior doors and jambs. If you are using natural wood trim and mouldings, you will want to paint the walls prior to this step. Pre-finishing the trim before installing will make the final finish easier, but any nail-holes will probably still need attention after installation.
4. 
   4
   Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it. Most likely, you will want to prime wallboard, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where possible, cutting-in with brushes around appurtenances and in corners.

   • Be sure to trim out the electrical devices, install lights and other fixtures, and install breakers in panel boxes if they were not pre-installed.
5. 
   5
   Install cabinets and other mill work. You will probably need at least basic kitchen storage cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may include a bar, upper storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils and supplies.
6. 
   6
   Install flooring. Note that for carpet floors, base boards are installed prior to flooring, leaving ³⁄₈ inch (1.0 cm) for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite floors, this trim is installed after the floor is finished.
7. 
   7
   Install appliances and have the utilities turned on. To start checking to make sure everything is working appropriately, activate the water and electricity to start experimenting with your handiwork. Adjust the jobs as necessary and work on finishing the house to a state at which you’ll want to move in and start enjoying your new home.